Mounting a tow bar flat, under the bumper on 88-99 Chevy pick-ups. Mounting on all late model trucks will be similar. The above drawings are 50% scale, so double all measurements. The existing curved tow hooks are removed, and two 2 1/2" X 3/8"angle irons take their place. Figure A is the right (passenger side) one of the two.

The length of Figure A determines how far under the bumper the tow bar is. Mine is 11 ½" long which allows swinging the tow bar up in an "A", but it points forward at about a 45 degree angle. If iron A were 13 ½" long the "A" would be close to 90 degrees up. If you make it that long I recommend welding the iron to the frame also. You could make the iron 2 ¼" shorter than 11 ½", but it will be harder to get at. If you change the length, add or subtract the distance at arrow 10.

Figure B shows the fronts of both irons A, including the back plates welded to the angle irons. I positioned them as shown to get the inner eyebolts the right distance.

A notch, 1" X 1 ¼", in figure C needs to be cut out of the left angle iron for the tow bar tongue. A crossways angle iron, 1/8" X 2", in figure D, is welded to the lengthwise irons. This strengthens and positions the tow bar when folding. A thin bent plate 21 snugs the tow bar in storage and is welded to the right "A" iron.

Figure E is an optional pin lock bracket. A 3/16" X ¾" flat is welded to the back plate 22, and bent and twisted. Another iron is bolted at the hole and hinged so it drops in front of and on the eyebolt pin, securing it.